First off, let's get some fine sawdust from cutting the inlay and work it into the tiny voids around the inlay. Then flood the inlay with super glue and work it into the inlay and sawdust with fingers protected from the glue with a piece of paper. I also clamped the book matched halves of the headstock overlay together as the seam was showing a little after working the inlay pieces in there yesterday. I set this aside to dry but got back to sanding it later. After measuring my tuners and headstock I sanded the inlay plate a bit thinner so it's down to about 1/16" thick.
Later in the afternoon I did some more measuring on the headstock and inlay plate. I squared it up on the belt/disk sander and shortened it to where I wanted it. Finally I glued and clamped them together.
So my back plates were a mess. The glue squeeze out was all over and the joint wasn't as tight as I wanted. I used a small plane to remove the glue but also managed to put some small dings in the wood.
I ended up spending over an hour with a random orbital sander trying to clean up those dings and the glue.
Unfortunately, the plates aren't as tight together as I'd like. I glued in a reinforcing strip along the joint on the inside. This is normal to add and not just because of the joint issues. I haven't been able to see the outside yet as the glue hasn't dried so I'll assess options tomorrow. It'll either get some sawdust fill, or be routed for a "zipper" or "stripe" inlay.
Lastly, I did some looking through my wood and found quarter sawn spruce for my braces! Woohoo!
I sanded a few pieces to match my 8 foot radius dish for bracing the back. They should get installed tomorrow I think. The back side of the plywood frame must be sanded in the radius disk first so that the curved back plates match with curved side edges to get a good gluing surface match. It's the details!
Brian
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