fretboard beginnings

Setting up to cut the fret slots is up for today.  First, a checklist of things to do and the order I'm choosing to do them.

Zero clearance for the blade to support a clean cut and 0.062" depth using a dial caliper.

This is a Stew Mac blade and has a 0.022" thick kerf.

I stacked the fretboard, the wedge shaped cutoff (that got things level again) and the jig guide.  These are taped together with double stick tape.  Then it's just cut a slot, lift the workpiece while returning the sled part of the jig, then engage the next slot and repeat the cut.  Easy peasy and done in a flash.

Note above that the slot and the blade are offset.  I think it made things easier since the blade and the guide slots are different widths, I just had to remember to take it into account when I taped the guide to the fretboard.

Below I placed the fretboard, wedge, and guide board on edge just to get the picture so you can see what I've been talking about with the wedge shapes.

All slots cut!

On this next picture, this pattern will get spray glued temporarily to the top of the fretboard.  The black lines represent where the string will be and the red lines represent the 2 tapered outside edges and the 3 inner red lines will be brass inlay.  Hopefully it'll make sense later.

Then I made a new jig to hold the fretboard while I cut those red lines on the tapers.  The jig runs in the miter slot of the table saw.  Those lines won't be cut until the brass gets here (in the next few days supposedly).  So, all in all, I only got to check off step 1 of the list up above but I'm in good shape to move forward soon.

The blade will cut flush with the edge of the jig so I can clamp, line up the lines on the pattern with the edge of the board, and cut.  I just need to ensure the depth is set correctly!  No oops allowed here!

Brian